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About Sasha_A80

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    ..:: Swojak ::..

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    Moscow, Russia
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  1. There are hundreds of EL154 to EJ204 swaps here in Russia. EL154 - no secondary air system, EGR available EDM EJ204\EJ20F MY2006\MY2007 secondary air sytem, EGR available EDM EJ204 MY2008\MY2009 no secondary air system, EGR available EDM EJ204 MY2010 secondary air sytem, EGR available Legacy JDM EJ204 MY2003\MY2007 no secondary air system, no EGR, no manifold air pressure sensor, sensor connectors are different You may use the whole JDM wiring loom with sensors with its sensors OR use the whole EL154 wiring with applicable sensors This is the most inexpensive solution here in Russia. Exiga JDM EJ204 MY2008\MY2009 no secondary air sytem, EGR available Exiga JDM EJ204 MY2010 secondary air sytem (??), EGR available EL154 ecu is to be reflashed for EJ204 engine, used injectors and air filter box, to disable EGR and against 2000-3000rpm hesitation. MY2008\MY2009 EL154 needs some work on exhaust piping to make one sector wider to raise high RPM torque/engine power.
  2. There is no reason to restore EL154 engine. Here in Russia we use to install EJ204 ( EJ20F if LPG installation is a must ) and reflash Hitachi engine ecu accordingly.
  3. You will be disappointed by driveability of your car after EGR is enabled. The original ecu is 22611-AJ160 ( 2004 model year ) or 22611-AJ610 ( 2005 model year ) if your car is made for European market. Both ecu's are flashable on the bench. You may flash your original or an applicable spare ecu. Corrections: most probably 22611-AH840(841\842) Hitachi ecu for Legacy03-05 2.0L engine.
  4. You probably have JDM cylinder head without EGR. There is an option to reflash the ecu and disable EGR.
  5. Quote the cost of secondary air system fixing and consider the alternative of the system deletes. Here in Russia dealers are able to restore the system for about EU1000 and it fails again in year in average. Maybe you are more lucky and new valves and a pump will run longer. Catalyst converter condition and 2000-3000 rpm engine flat spot are the next reasons to flash the ecu.
  6. All Subaru's manual are jerky at low gear low load and\or reverse motion. Ignition timing maps are to be corrected.
  7. Sasha_A80


    Check rubber hoses near the EVAP solenoid. If you are not sure that EVAP system is working properly than do not close firmly the fuel refilling cap while driving.
  8. This should be smoother after your ecu was flashed and maybe be adjusted remotely. And carefully verify reverse driving.
  9. OBK 3 with SOHC 2.5 EJ253 engine is completely another animal that does not exhibit 2000-3000RPM hesitation problem. The most often problem is plugs\plug wires( may not be applicable for MY2007 engine ) or ignition modules with its plug insulators. ALL subaru engines have a problem with main connector from the engine to car body wiring. This connector is located under throttle body passenger side. And it may need to be clean\serviced.
  10. EJ20F may not need valve job as often as EJ204 engine. You may also add up to 0.05 mm for LPG fuel. Test intake air pressure at idle after active driving in order to verify whether valve clearance adjustment have to be done.
  11. This is a faulty secondary air system. There is an expensive repair that will run a year or two till the next failure. Most usually car owners disable this system.
  12. Make a log of the problem and upload the result. Most probably the problem will become evident. https://www.drive2.ru/l/6520034/
  13. Sasha_A80

    Błąd P0030

    P0030 error is due to the soot inside the air fuel sensor. Sensor is quite good for engine control moreover JDM and Middle East versions of ecu never tested this conditions upto model year 2008. You may install a fresh sensor or reflash the ecu. You may reset the error by any OBD tool or OBD dongle with a free software after a fresh sensor is installed. Or wait up upto 20 drives while ecu resets\forget this error. Legacy08 will not reset this error after battery disconnect.
  14. There are two major problems with MY01-MY05. Ignition system failure ( plugs and high voltage cables ) and false knock ignition retard. The first needs to carefully check plugs outer insulators AND inner surface of cable plug insulators. Electrical discharge traces are usually seen. In such a case the plug AND the HV cable should be changes together. False knocking requires the knock sensor and its wiring to be inspected. Any free wire moving may simulate false knock signal. If sensor wiring rerouting not solves false knocking then ecu reflash fills the bill. To diagnose the real problem you are to make a log of your usual driving and the log after ecu reset.
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