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akcja serwisowa do FXT


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Witam

Wczoraj dostałem maila od dealera wzywającego do kontaktu w sprawie akcji serwisowej do XTeka polegającej na przeprogramowaniu komputera silnika. Czy ktoś już był w tej sprawie w serwisie i może wie więcej o co w tym chodzi? 

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zmiana softu zapobiegające ponoć nieprawidlowemu spalaniu mieszanki, po wgraniu  nie zauwazyłem żadnych zmian. Było o tym na forum ja sie sam złgsiłem zajmuje to około  pół godziny, listu nie dostałem.

Edited by jaszyn
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Dzisiaj uaktualniłem oprogramowanie też się dziwiłem dlaczego mnie wzywają zamiast uaktualnić soft przed sprzedażą pojazdu (odbierałem w sierpniu) ale mi powiedzieli że to najnowsza poprawka z września, swoją drogą coś często ten soft zmieniają

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Ciekawe czy po tej całej akcji zmiany softu auto ma dalej 240 KM ?

Ma ktoś może dane jaki powinien być wykres doładowania od forka ?  

Edited by Bartek_82
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Grzebiąc po necie natknąłem się na forum US"ej i tam jest dość szeroko opisany temat aktualizacji oraz UWAGA - Zmiany fabrycznych opasek na rurkach od ic do ic i do Turbo.. Pozwolę sobie wkleić ten ichniejszy mały tutorial oraz zapytanie czy ktoś się orientuje czy u nas ten problem również występuje, czy w Polskich XT są te same opaski [śmiem twierdzić że na TAK] i czy ktoś zauważył objaw "popuszczania opasek" ewentualnie robił test pokazujący doładowanie :)?-jak poniżej ?
Temat aktualizacji też jest tam dość mocno wyczerpany.
 

 

"The Danoz fix"

This is a summary of the previous thread including instructions for the clamp fix for the FA20DIT powered MY14+ Forester XT (SJ series). The instructions may also apply to the MY15 WRX but this is yet to be confirmed. Subaru Australia will not replace these clamps for you so you must do this yourself or get a qualified mechanic to follow these instructions. I am not aware if this will void your warranty so you should check that before proceeding. I refuse to be held responsible for any damage done to your car, if you dont feel confident, simple dont do it. What I am sure of is that should you choose to drive the car around in its current state with all of the severe pinging and and overboosting issues, you WILL significantly shorten the life of the motor through detonation damage or the engine running too lean as a result of unmetered air entering the induction system.

The engine suffers from more than one fault that needs to be rectified. Most notably, the extremely poor quality of clamps used on the boost piping. These clamps are so sub-standard that if you went to Bunnings or Masters and bought their worst clamp intended for household plumbing, it would still be better than the ones used on our engines, and that is not an exaggeration. From the factory these clamps are loose and their quality prevents a proper air tight seal. The factory clamps have also been known to fail completely after one tightening attempt. The new clamps also have a "liner" which provides a smooth even clamping surface which prevents damage to the material is gripping onto.

Use ONLY these clamps! They are called BREEZE LINER CLAMPS.

1 x Stock code: 9420
2 x Stock code: 9448H
2 x Stock code: 9444H

Here in Australia we can only get them in boxes of 10, so Im not sure what is available to you US customers.

NORMA Group - Breeze Products



All of these instructions need to be fully applied ALL at once for the fix to work. There is no point filling up on 91 Octane and putting two clamps on your car and saying it doest work. It will NOT work under those circumstances guaranteed. There are boost leaks at every induction pipe clamping surface on the engine, so sealing two will only make the others worse and your net result will be zero performance improvement. The clamps have been selected specifically for their ability to remain in their tightened state without the risk of them undoing, or in worst case, failing completely. Another brand or style of clamps will not necessarily hold so do not even try to substitute. I have tested the above very extensively and put a lot of time and research into selecting something appropriate for our application. They are also the same size and band width as the factory clamps so they will definitely fit. So here goes...

Preparation: Your car should be low on fuel and then refilled with 91 Octane fuel of any brand. NOT 93. This step may be redundant with the latest software update from Subaru (version 082), but this is yet to be confirmed.

1) Remove negative battery terminal and proceed. These 5 clamps need to be replaced with the specified clamps and tightened to a firm fit, and once the engine has warmed to operation temperature re-tightened. The clamps should not be overtightened or it will cause the rubber boots or insulators to "wrinkle" and cause leaks.
* Turbo intake
* Intercooler inlet
* Intercooler outlet
* Throttle body
* Bypass valve

Caution- Work carefully around the intercooler, it is quite fragile and the heat dissipating fins are quite easily damaged. This will rob you of power if the damage is excessive.

Hint - You will need to remove the intercooler completely when replacing the clamps on the small hose that connects to the throttle body. It may be stuck fast from the rubbers aging so dont go crazy with the wiggling or you will most certainly damage it. When the intercooler is off, to prevent any foreign objects entering the induction system, I suggest you stretch some new powderless latex gloves over the inlet and outlet. When re-installing the intercooler use a very small smear of vaseline or light paraffin oil as lubricant on the inside of the rubber boots or "insulators" to help guide the piping onto it. It should slide on very easily then. Also make sure that the rectangle "hump" on the bottom of the small pipe is pointing directly down when reinstalling the pipe. You can partially see the hump in the picture below labeled "Tridon clamp damage" the lubricant applied to the pipe will also alow you to rotate the pipe when its in position.

2) Tighten all three clamps after the airflow meter and before the turbo. There are three, do not skip any. These clamps are of a different manufacturer that the other five and they will hold if tightened. These clamps should be firm-tight. Also before tightening ensure that the induction piping is located correctly. i.e the rubber boots have a small keyway in them and they must be pushed up into this keyway and then the clamps tightened. ALL THREE!

3) Reset ECU using the following procedure.
*Replace negative battery terminal.
* Turn the ignition key so the indicator lights show and the dial sweep occurs. DO NOT START THE CAR. leave the key in this position.
* Wait at least 10 seconds, preferably 20 seconds for the ECU to complete its throttle learning procedure. There will be a number of clicks and whirls from the engine, this is normal.
* After 20 seconds start the car with all accessories off and allow engine to idle for one minute.
* ECU reset is complete. When driving, the car will feel funny and a little bit sluggish after the reset, this is normal, as the ECU is learning its new fuel trims wastegate settings and transmission behaviors. After half a tank of fuel, I think you will be pleasantly surprised at your "new" car. After the reset you will also need to perform the drivers power window calibration and set your clocks/date again. This is covered in your Subaru owners manual.

4) Double check your work and replace engine covers/bottom bash plate and clips, check clamp tightness, check tightness again when engine is at operating temperature.

Left: Replacement clamp Right: Subaru clamp
Note shape and material difference.

NB: See attachments for positions of clamps that need to be changed or tightened.

 

 

I jeszcze test :P

 

TESTING YOUR WORK.

Warm your car up to operating temperature (oil temp above 80 Deg C) and drive normally, with a few squirts of mid throttle and full throttle. OBEY THE ROAD RULES AND SPEED LIMITS!

Set your multi function display to show oil temp and boost. Find a long uphill grade, the steeper and longer the better and shift the car into manual mode so that you will be using paddle shift. Accelerate slowly and shift into third while the engine sits at about 2k to 3k RPM and floor it while at the same time monitoring your boost pressure. It will rise rapidly and may overshoot the desired 16psi consistent pressure. This is normal while the car adjusts to its new airflow characteristics and establishes a suitable wastegate setting. Once things have settled down the boost should sit at a very steady 14psi to 17psi. If it fluctuating (more than 3 psi), you still have a leak and need to check the positioning and tightness of the newly installed clamps. Also important is to keep an eye on your RPM and shift up when necessary. All we are trying to see is if the turbo will maintain its max boost. 16psi is the magic figure, 13psi or less means you have a leak, 20psi also means you have a leak. Fluctuating boost = leak.

TROUBLESHOOTING

If your car rattles, hesitates or suffers inconsistent acceleration the clamps are still not installed correctly. We can narrow down the areas to inspect as follows.

1) Pinging (rattle) accompanied WITH smoke from exhaust, sudden loss of power with the onset of boost. Check the clamps and piping after the turbo. (The ones you just installed)

2) Pinging or rattle with no smoke and a sudden loss of power with the onset of boost WITHOUT smoke from the exhaust. Check all piping and clamps BEFORE the turbo and after the airflow meter. (the ones you just tightened but didn't replace)

If a pinging or rattling episode has occurred you need to check those specified areas AND perform an ECU reset procedure.

As previously mentioned, it takes up to half a tank of fuel for the car to be performing as it should so be patient. Don't be gentle, give it some stick, and most importantly ENJOY! Once you have it right you will know, because the car will pull strongly and never hesitate, ping or rattle. (not even a little bit)

From now on until I get more info on the software update, ONLY USE 91 Octane fuel and you will not have any problems.

Update: July 2014 FHI has issued a recall of all FA20DIT Subarus for a software update. The update will address the detonation and hesitation issues but does not address the boost leak problem. If a leak is present it will reduce performance accordingly to prevent engine damage from sudden overboost. With the new clamps installed AND software updated the car will run on the highest octane fuel available without problems and solve any uneven acceleration or low power problems. After the recall your ECU will be upgraded from version 081 to 082. Other updates address different issues such as hard starting etc.

Edited by Fortis
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Skoro samochody na rynek USA i Europę są "różnymi" samochodami
:huh: Różnymi samochodami? To te same samochody, produkowane na tej samej taśmie w tej samej fabryce.

 

 

Pragniemy uspokoić, iż nie odnotowaliśmy
;):D
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Byłeś, widziałeś? :D
Nie byłem, natomiast interesuje się i wiem że Forester jest produkowany w Fabryce w Gunma (w Japonii) nie w fabryce w USA. Z tego względu technicznie samochody nie różnią się od siebie co do konstrukcji a jedynie detali wyposażenia.

Wielu kwestii nie da się sprawdzić osobiście - opieram się na na informacjach z pewnych źródeł. :)

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racja na 200 sprzedanych Forkow w Polsce nie odnotowano przypadkow. Na 20 tys sprzedanych w USA odnotowano 10 przypadkow.

Moral

Zmniejszyc cene Forka XT w Polsce to i sie sprzeda wiecej egzemplarzy podobnie jak w USA i odnotuje sie podobna ilosc przypadkow :)

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Witejcie,

 

4 dni temu miałem akcje serwisową (wam też nic nie wpisali do książki serwisowej na ten temat chociaż specjalnie ją chcieli??). Spaliłem od tego czasu 2 baki paliwa i trochę niepokojąco wygląda fakt że w tych samych warunkach samochód pali mi 11,6 średnio zamiast 10,4 jak dotychczas. Czy ktoś z Was ma podobne odczucia?

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4 dni temu miałem akcje serwisową (wam też nic nie wpisali do książki serwisowej na ten temat chociaż specjalnie ją chcieli??)

 

o ile dobrze pamiętam wpis był długopisem, recznie, ale jakiś był  - ale nie przy przeglądach tylko chyba gdzieś na okładce, jutro sprawdzę. Większego spalania nie zauważyłem raczej bym powiedział że forek mi pali coraz mniej. Chociaż tak naprawdę ciężko o powtarzalne warunki

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Ja z kolei mam wrażenie że komputer bardziej przekłamuje spalanie , to znaczy pokazuje mniej niż wynika z pomiaru przebiegu. W sumie to moze rzeczywiście trochę więcej pali ale z drugiej strony to jest zimniej i dłużej się silnik rozgrzewa

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