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Dławienie 2.0 N/A - 2-3 tys RPM. Coś nowego?

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Ile czasowo Wam zajęło od wysłania do otrzymania? Czy są ślady otwierania ECU? Czy tylko programowa ingerencja?

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o ile dobrze zrozumialem pompik'a to Sasha sprzedaje gotowe przemapowane ECU. Swoje mozna sobie zostawic albo odsprzedac Sashy. Tak wiec sprawa odbywa sie bez unieruchamiania auta.

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A immo nie będzie miało za złe że dyrektor się zmienił?

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w przyslanym ECU immo niet. Jesli ktos chce miec immo to tez sie da tylko procedura wymaga wiecej zabawy.

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W dniu 3.09.2017 o 04:23, pompik napisał:

Jeśli chodzi o immo, to ja poprosiłem o odłączenie i na razie jeżdzę bez, bo nie miałem czasu się tym zająć, ale jest klilka opcji. Sasha pomaga również zdalnie:

- można wlutować eeprom chip i aktywować immo we flash'u
- w ASO aktywować   immo we flashu i zsynchronizować kluczyki

- można sprzedać swoje stare ECU Sashy. Jak będzie je miał w ręku, to może Wam wysłać nowego flash'a z zakodowanym immo mailem

 

Na cenę składa się ECU, usługa oraz przesyłka i zależy od kursu. Najlepiej pytać u źródła sasha.morzhakov@mail.ru

 


 

 

No dobra, ale kto Ci wgra tego flasha? Widziałem, że Sasha wysyła też kabel VAG KKL, ale z jego użyciem wydaje mi się, że nie da się tych ECU mapować. Czy on jakoś odblokowuje tę możliwość? Jakim programem flashujesz - Ecu-Flashem?

 

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pozwole sobie wprowadzic dygresje do jakze ciekwej dyskusji o remapie by Sasha (ktory jak dotad mi nie odpisal, ale wiadomo swieta itd.) gdyz nadal wojuje z problemem:

 

po paru dniach meczarni z autem mulacym do tego stopnia ze mialem wrazenie ze ze 160km zostalo jakies 16 wymienilem czujnik stuku. Uzywka z Allegrosz. Pomoglo ale nie do konca.

 

Czujnik ustawilem wg opisu w manualu, kabel w polozeniu powiedzmy 60 stopni, dokrecony niestety na czuja bo nie udalo sie zdobyc klucza dynamometrycznego o odpowiednim zakresie. Z tym ze jako inzynier osobiscie nie sadze by mialo to jakies diametralne znaczenie - czujnik to mikrofon, musi byc pewnie przymocowany do podloza i tyle. Nie sadze by bylo tak ze moment dokrecania przeklada sie liniowo badz nieliniowo na sygnal. Oczywiscie bierzemy pod uwage rozsadne granice, z jednej strony czujnik nie moze sie luzowac, z drugiej nie mozna ukrecic sruby badz gwintu.

 

W kazdym razie po montazu czujnika zrobilem reset ECU, wyjazd na droge, silnik sie rozgrzal, but w podloge i IAM ladnie poszedl z 0.5 na 1.0 Auto zaczelo jezdzic jak poprzednio. Ulga, radosc i w ogole. Jednak po jakis 20km w pewnej chwili (lekko pod gorke, skret w uliczke, dodanie gazu przy 2000rpm na 2 biegu) nastapilo szarpiecie a nastepnie stopniowy spadek momentu przy dodawaniu gazu + dodatkowo mocne szarpanie jak poprzednio. Podlaczylem kompa - znowu IAM jest 0.0. Po godzinie przerwy reset, niestety blyskawicznie zrobilo sie zero. Jeszcze jeden reset - IAM zaczal sie wahac, z 0.5 zrobilo sie 0.625, potem 0.75, potem 0.625 ... i znow 0.0. Na drugi dzien kolejny reset, i pewna zmiana stylu jazdy. Unikam mocnego wciskania gazu <2500rpm, dopiero powyzej sobie pozwalam. Troche mnie to drazni ale trudno. Tym razem z 0.5 IAM zrobil sie 0.8125 i tak zostalo. Da sie jezdzic.

 

Zaczalem przegladac logi i widac cos zastanawiajacego. Otoz ujemne wartosci "learned ignition timing" i "fine learning knock correction" pojawiaja sie zazwyczaj przy odjeciu gazu, i przy podcisnieniu w dolocie zwykle miedzy 0.2 a 0.3 bara. Czasem tez ale w mniejszym stopniu podczas jazdy ze stala predkoscia glownie na 5 biegu (80-90kmh) tez w okolicach -0.2...-0.3bara. Nigdy wczesniej czegos takiego nie widzialem. Ossochozii??

 

gdzie teraz szukac, co sprawdzic?

 

Inne pytanie: czy w prawidlowo pracujacym silniku IAM powinien miec zawsze wartosc 1.0 czy niekoniecznie? W koncu okresla on wlasciwosci przeciwstukowe paliwa, w moim przypadku LPG

 

Zalaczam logi z RR, moze komus bedzie sie chcialo zajrzec.

romraiderlog_20171223_185941.csv

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W moich obu autach jest zawsze IAM =1. 

Wolnossakowi czasami zdarza się zamulić, ale nie mocno.

 

Co do remapu by Sasha - wg kolegi @Knurek1111 autor przeróbki wykonuje jakąś modyfikację hardwareową by umożliwić wgrywanie nowego softu. Czy ktoś coś więcej jest w stanie na ten temat powiedzieć?

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GOOGLE makes wonders.

I am currently able to follow your discussion.

 

Engine hesitation problem is well known here in Russia since a lot of cars has 200-300-400 kkm on the clock.

A lot of cars was swapped from EL154 to EJ204\EJ254 engines and was tuned accordingly.

 

Sasha

Edited by Sasha_A80

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Sasha, nice reading you here... ;) (it’s me, Filip with faulty AVCS solenoid :P)

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MY06+ AVCS solenoid 10921-AA080 was designed for 100kkm. 

Pre MY06 solenoid runs 200-300 kkm..

EL154 engine was designed for 100kkm in the whole...

 

2000-3000RPM engine hesitation coming at 80-100kkm is a child of FHI marketing team.

After that mileage YOU ARE TO buy a new car according to FHI opinion. 

Edited by Sasha_A80
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Coś mi się wydaje, że koniec wątku jest blisko... ;) 

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Sasha, could You give us a little bit more info about the whole procedure of fixing the hesitation problem?

If it is not a secret - do You perform any hardware modifications on ECU?

What is the cost of modification performed by You?

How long approximately does it take to do the modification, including shipping in both sides?

Can the dealer reflash ECU with Your software?

Is the procedure safe?

Would You consider to modify few ECU if we would ship them from Poland in 1 parcel?

If I would like to buy some ECU to use it temporarly for the time of modification - can I put ECU from Forester to my 2007 Impreza?

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To cure a hesitation problem AVCS settings are to be changed.

Factory tune sets intake AVCS to 50 deg advance at 2000-3000 RPM that is a mechanical limit.

A brand new engine is able to work properly under this settings.

Used ( 80-100 kkm MY06-MY07, 60-80 kkm MY08-MY09, 0-20 kkm MY10 (!!!)) engine will generated sounds that the ecu is considered as knocking.

30-40 deg AVCS max is a primary solution saying nothing that many other settings in knock correction procedure are to be reviewed high mileage engines.

Anyway logs are needed after the reflashed ecu is installed for engine diagnostics and before if possible.

 

Usually a secondary air and EGR systems, catalyst and a rear O2 sensor verification are asked to be disabled.

In order the engine maybe started on a second hand ecu immo is to be disabled.

Immo maybe restored later, there are some options that may need or may not need my assistance as preferred.

 

Hardware modifications are minimal and they are all around knock sensor circuitry, reprogramming and immo ( for MY08+ ).

A primary flash  bootloader is substituted that OPENs the  ECU for further tuning AND LOCKs against official updates.

The ecu cannot be destroyed during flash on the bench and later by a customer.

Moreover an ecu failed during an official or a third party reflash maybe used as a spare.

 

There is ecu compatibility info that will be provided according to your VIN. 

 

Sending to Russia tooks 1-2 weeks each side, the reworked ecu is sent out the next day.

There is a number of spare ecu's in Poland at hand my customers have.  Thus I believe it is reasonable to send those for rework.

As a bonus I will be able to provide those primary owners with immo sync if they wish to restore immo.

A cable for logging and flashing together with an applicable software is provided.

Verified tunes for your local petrol and LPG are available and maybe corrected later according to logs.

 

Currently the service, cable and shipping costs EU200 per unit, batch orders may not need a cable for each unit sent.

Fast snail-mail postage limits a parcel by 2 kG that means 1 or 2 ecu's may be sent at a time.  An incoming parcel is not limited.

There were 3 GDD\GD9 ecu's max at a time from your country.

 

A reasonable price for a spare ecu in Europe is about EU100 and slightly more here in Russia.  The most expensive are ecu's for Forester\Legacy MY10+.

 

Hope this helps   

 

 

Edited by Sasha_A80
misprints
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Sasha: I understand that Secondary air system, rear o2 and catalyst monitoring to be mainly source of problems but how about EGR? Is this really acting as one of sources of hesitation problem? As far as I know EGR in general helps with emissions, and also gas mileage. What is your practical experience with this?

 

How about cable for logging and flashing? Is it any special cable, or just VAG KKL or similar we use for RomRaider?

 

 

Guys here: should we start list of people interested in buying upgraded ECU? I am interested. Who else?

 

And who has a spare ECU and can send it to Sasha?

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EGR system is solely for emission purposes.  The problem is that EGR system is not designed properly for EJ engines.

EGR flow does not divided equally thru cylinders and ignition timing is not corrected for slow mixture burning due to EGR mixture presence.

As a result fuel efficiency is not improved and 4th cylinder is overheated at summer light throttle conditions.

 

Logging\flashing cable is a reworked plain KKL adapter.  Schematics will be provided for anyone interested in.

Flashing is possible after ecu bootloader is changed on the bench.

Romraider logger is not adapted for this reworked cable thus an applicable version of ecuExplorer for logging and free Renesas Flash Development Tool for flashing is provided.

 

I may ask my Poland customers if the wish to send\ to sell a spare ecu's if those ecu's are compatible for particular VIN's.

MY08+ ecu's are usually readily available here in Russia, MY10+ is not, MY06+ may or may not be available.

 

 

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Sasha, what is the cost of modified ecu for Impreza hatch MY08? I want to keep my current ecu just in case. Also, I sent you a private message with VIN.

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PM sent.

 

I did forget to say that MY08+ cars with Keyless Entry System need some your efforts to overcome immo if the original ecu is not sent for reflash.

Edited by Sasha_A80

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Sasha: could you please provide procedure for generating logs you need before remap?

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https://www.drive2.ru/l/6520034/

 

Hope this helps..

This link is in Russian, pictures and the parameter list is correct.

 

You may try this google translation

https://translate.google.ru/translate?hl=pl&sl=ru&u=https://www.drive2.ru/l/6520034/

 

Unpack ecuExplorer software into a folder, installation is not required.

Applicable manual is included. OpenPort2 cable is not supported.

Use any K-line or OpenPort 1.3 cable.

 

Alternatively RomRaider Logger may be used with the same parameter list.

Extended list may stop logging.

 

10-20 minutes drive is sufficient.

To verify whether catalyst convertor is melted or not 1-2 sec WOT record at 6000-6500RPM acceleration is required.

 

ecuExplorer
1 - Connect the cable to a computer USB port and a car OBD connector.
2 - Switch ignition ON.
3 - Start ecuExplorer
4 - Assing USB serial port to SSM diagnostics
5 - Restart ecuExplorer to connect

6 - Choose applicable data for logging if available, do not choose others

 

Engine Speed (RPM),Manifold Absolute Pressure (Bar),
Air/Fuel Learning #1 (%),Air/Fuel Correction #1 (%),
Coolant Temperature (°C),Engine Load (%),Rear O2 Sensor (V),
Throttle Opening Angle (%),Mass Air Flow (g/s),Intake Air Temperature (°C),
Ignition Timing (°BTDC),Vehicle Speed (KPH),Atmospheric Pressure (Bar),
Fuel Injector #1 Pulse Width (ms),Air Flow Sensor Voltage (V),
Battery Voltage (V),Accelerator Opening Angle (%),
Learned Ignition Timing (°BTDC),
Rear O2 Heater Current (Amps),
OCV Duty Left, OCV Duty Right,
Intake VVT Advance Angle Left (°),Intake VVT Advance Angle Right (°),
Air/Fuel Sensor #1 (Lambda),Air/Fuel Sensor #1 Resistance (Ohms),Air/Fuel Sensor #1 Heater Current (Amps),
Knocking Correction (°)

 

Available parameter list may vary from model to model.

 

7 - Set applicable folder for log files ( do not use the root folder of a system drive )
8 - Ins key starts and stops logging.
 

ecuExplorer_20110822.zip

Edited by Sasha_A80

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A czy tez wasze samochody nie moga przekroczyc 150 z gorki i 120 pod gorke i brak mocy przez caly okres obrotow + szarpanie przy 3 tys. (Na benzynie ciut lepiej niz na gazie)? Bo nie wiem czy moja usterke z tym wiazac?

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8 hours ago, Daniel1997 said:

A czy tez wasze samochody nie moga przekroczyc 150 z gorki i 120 pod gorke i brak mocy przez caly okres obrotow + szarpanie przy 3 tys. (Na benzynie ciut lepiej niz na gazie)? Bo nie wiem czy moja usterke z tym wiazac?

Get k-line cable and make some logs of your problem.

This give you a chance to make diagnostics in advance.

The most common problems are faulty AVCS system and melted catalyst converters.

Saying nothing about 2000-3000RPM hesitation.

Edited by Sasha_A80

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Jeżdżę już ponad rok na modzie od Sashy i jest OK. Bardzo dobry mod pod Pb i LPG. Zawsze chłop służy pomocą i można wgrywać jego flash'e samemu. Mam również wycięte EGR i SAI. Zero problemów. Nie ma się co spinać i najlepiej zamówić dodatkowe ECU z modem a potem stare sprzedać jak będzie OK.. 

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IAM drops to 0 after the first acceleration...

Air flow max 120g\sec does not look good for Impreza GD.

It usually takes place for slightly melted primary catalyst for GD's sold in Russia.

I could not say for sure for your market.

Maybe EJ20F has more restrictive exhaust system from the factory.

Edited by Sasha_A80

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in my last log IAM is not 0, starts from 0.87 and rises to 1. probably because I dont hit accelerator under 2500 rpm.

 

What max airflow is ok?

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